Condado de Huelva lies in the southeast of the province of Huelva, between Seville and the marshes of the Doñana, on sandy and chalky soils across eighteen municipalities. Its historic name is Condado de Niebla, and the wine has a claim few others can make: it was loaded at Palos de la Frontera and Moguer for the first voyage to the Americas, which is why it is sold here as the wine of the discovery.
The local grape is Zalema, grown almost nowhere else, which covers most of the roughly 6,000 hectares and gives a soft, low acid white. The tradition of the region is fortified and oxidative: condado pálido, aged under a veil of flor in the manner of fino, and condado viejo, aged in contact with air until it turns amber and nutty. Only Bollullos Par del Condado and La Palma del Condado may age the wines. The same vineyard also supplies a protected wine vinegar.
